Working process
Here are the many steps of our design and making process.
From the first sketches to the models, the patterns, the selection of leathers and colors, the cutting, the assembly, the gluing, the dyeing, the marking, the waxing...
A whole series of small daily actions which are illustrated here with a poetic and artistic point of view... to linger a moment on the beauty of the motions and tools used in leatherwork.
From the first sketches to the models, the patterns, the selection of leathers and colors, the cutting, the assembly, the gluing, the dyeing, the marking, the waxing...
A whole series of small daily actions which are illustrated here with a poetic and artistic point of view... to linger a moment on the beauty of the motions and tools used in leatherwork.
Notebook
Very often the first idea of a new model appears in sketch in my notebook.
I keep them carefully numbered, today I'm at number 63.
Sketches
Drawing is probably the thing I enjoy the most in the whole creative process.
I like to discuss with the white paper in silence.
Deciding on shapes, proportions, precise details or their absence, letting the struggle between certainties and doubts express itself...
I like to discuss with the white paper in silence.
Deciding on shapes, proportions, precise details or their absence, letting the struggle between certainties and doubts express itself...
Design tools
Pencils, markers, rulers, squares, compasses, sharpeners...
Drawing tools are faithful allies to define the models in their details and their subtleties.
Drawing tools are faithful allies to define the models in their details and their subtleties.
Patterns
After the final drawing, the prototypist makes a cardboard pattern.
Each element that composes it has a precise shape to determine the volume and the different components of the bag.
Each element that composes it has a precise shape to determine the volume and the different components of the bag.
Mockups
We make a cardboard mockup for each model, before making it definitely in leather.
It allows us to make improvements and see the drawings in volume. Even for presentation furniture etc.
Sometimes I prefer cardboard models rather than real finishes.
Sometimes I prefer cardboard models rather than real finishes.
Color cards
The choice of colors is a delicate and subtle work, an imaginary journey to compose the ranges, a game with the infinite shades and tones of each season.
Leather skin
Leather is an incredible material that nature gives us, quite equivalent to wood and marble.
It is so noble and sensual that I try to intervene as little as possible to let it fully express its character.
It is so noble and sensual that I try to intervene as little as possible to let it fully express its character.
Hand leather cut
A large majority of the elements of the bags are cut by hand with cutters and very simple hand tools. Each pattern is placed in the leather and cut with precise and decisive movements.
Cutting out
For the models of small leather goods, the elements are cut in a press with the help of punches. Therefore each piece has a series of metal parts with its own precise geometry and millimeter.
Pre-cut
Each pattern exists in cut and pre-cut, that is to say that each element is pre-cut, glued to its lining and later cut a second time.
In this way we obtain a perfectly straight and aligned slice of the layers. This action creates negative leather scraps that are of great beauty and sometimes inspiration for new pieces.
In this way we obtain a perfectly straight and aligned slice of the layers. This action creates negative leather scraps that are of great beauty and sometimes inspiration for new pieces.
Leather thickness
The thickness of the leather is measured in tenths of a millimeter. Each element has its precise thickness.
The edges of the leather are "trimmed" with an oblique knife or with a trimming machine.
The corners of the pieces are grooved with a "groove" that makes a hollow line to help folding.
The edges of the leather are "trimmed" with an oblique knife or with a trimming machine.
The corners of the pieces are grooved with a "groove" that makes a hollow line to help folding.
Folding leather
Many of our pieces are directly inspired by simple cardboard boxes and other industrial packaging.
The techniques of folding leather are very similar to cardboard, in all cases I strive to remain as simple as possible without adding superfluous sophistication to keep the result light and deliberately humble.
The techniques of folding leather are very similar to cardboard, in all cases I strive to remain as simple as possible without adding superfluous sophistication to keep the result light and deliberately humble.
Assembly elements
When each element is finished and ready to be assembled, the assembly can already be done, either by hand or by machine.
But first we use glue or double-sided tape to position each of the seams precisely with each other.
But first we use glue or double-sided tape to position each of the seams precisely with each other.
Various tools
There are many hand tools to prepare the elements of a bag.
For example tools to make holes, mortises, rivets, eyelets... And also the sewing machine of course.
For example tools to make holes, mortises, rivets, eyelets... And also the sewing machine of course.
Glue/Painting edges
The gluing of the elements is done with a brush, with white glue (although it can also be done with a gun for more industrial processes).
The dyeing of the wafers is usually done by hand as well. There are several layers of colored or transparent wax that are interspersed with sanding,
to give a well finished and glossy look to the piece. The white cloth in the picture is the one to clean the brushes, the traces of the colored wax remain as an involuntary painting.
The dyeing of the wafers is usually done by hand as well. There are several layers of colored or transparent wax that are interspersed with sanding,
to give a well finished and glossy look to the piece. The white cloth in the picture is the one to clean the brushes, the traces of the colored wax remain as an involuntary painting.
Logo stamp
When the piece is finished, the brand logo is hot stamped on the leather (this can also be done sometimes in the middle of the process).
In our case, the logo is made tone on tone and only in relief, placed in a place inside or as discreet as possible.
In our case, the logo is made tone on tone and only in relief, placed in a place inside or as discreet as possible.
Care and final actions
The balm to nourish the leather is usually applied when the bag is finished, but it can also be done later, to maintain and protect the leather.
We also use a hair dryer to revive the leather, as the hot air heats up and brings out the wax from the inside, giving a less matte, slightly shiny look.
When everything is finished, you just have to keep it in its cotton bag, to protect it in storage and wait for its use!
We also use a hair dryer to revive the leather, as the hot air heats up and brings out the wax from the inside, giving a less matte, slightly shiny look.
When everything is finished, you just have to keep it in its cotton bag, to protect it in storage and wait for its use!
Color change due to light
Color change due to light.